Day 2 - River Carnoch to Shiel Bridge, 21.5 miles 1,930 metres climb
Camp was a very quiet place that night. Day one had been a real eye opener for the team and there were some very heavy legged hikers by the end of the day. It was important that everyone got a good nights sleep as day two would be twice as hard and even more energy sapping.
After a good sleep, I was first at to surafce just after 6am. I was conscious of the need to get up and away as early as possible as we would need all available daylight if we were going to stand any chance of reaching Shiel Bridge before dark. Ellie soon appeared from the confines of her tent and I soon realised that her sleep wasn't quite as successful as mine. Having just announced to Alan that I probably had my best ever sleep in a tent, Ellie added, in a flood of tears, that she just had the most miserable night of her life. Freezing cold, wet and with no sleep whatsoever, she definitely wasn't up for 'high-fiving' the experience. One by one, the team gradually emerged from their own little canvas worlds into what was actually a glorious morning. At 7am, with the sun hiding behind the mountains, it was bitterly cold, but the mood within the camp was actually very positive and upbeat - if only they knew what was come!!
The first section was to follow the River Carnoch upstream into the heart of the Knoydart. It was a lovely start to the day and a beautiful walk deep into the gorge. The views of Knoydart were ever more awesome as we turned each corner; the morning sun shimmered on the grass laden mountain slopes, awash with purple heather, little groups of trees and pockets of snow - it was truly stunning. The rising sun splayed elongated shadows across the rocks and boulders which clung to the hillside, adding that little bit of drama to the landscape.
Before long, it was time to leave the riverside and head directly up the hillside to the mountain path which led to Barisdale and Loch Hourn. I recalled from my previous time on the trail that this was a hazardous climb, fraught with the possibiilty of slipping to the bottom with one false move. Etched in my mind were memories of scrambling up an almost vertical face, clinging for dear life onto little tufts of grass and heather, desperate not to fall back down to the River Carnoch below. My concerns were allevaited somewhat as the climb, this time, was nowhere near as bad - although it was still a tricky and steep scramble. A few of the guys made the first attempt while I waited back for the others. It would be unnecessary waste of energy by storming up the hill; slow and sure was the name of the game and half an hour later we had all made it and reached the path high on the mountain. The views up here were astonishing - you'll be hard pushed to find anywhere more picturesque in the whole of Scotland. We were in the middle of Knoydart, the sun was shining, skies were blue and the mountains were spectacular. This view was my highlight of the three day challenge.
Re-grouped, we continued along the narrow hillside path, climbing gradually to the 500 metre high mountain pass, before leaving behind those wonderful views surrounding Loch Nevis and Loch Quioch. One stunning view was soon met by another wonderful horizon, this time of Loch Hourn and the distant mountains of Loch Alsh and Skye. The descent to Barisdale was steady and gradual, following the glen to the shores of Loch Hourn. The group, by this stage, had separated considerably. At the bottom the hill, the leaders waited at a wooden bridge for about half an hour for the others to catch up. I was now having real concerns over our pace as a group - it had taken a lot longer than I thought to complete this section and, at this rate, we would never make Shiel Bridge before dark. It was time to get serious. After a discussion with the team, Kenny F, Chris and Ollie decided that they would walk to Kinloch Hourn and make arrangements to for a taxi to take them the rest of the way to Shiel Bridge. It was a really tough and emotional moment. The guys desparately wanted to continue with the rest of us, but with a combination of niggling injuries and fatigue, they were completely selfless in allowing the rest of us to continue at a pace which would get us to Shiel Bridge before dark. We said our goodbyes, shared a few hugs and we were on our way. Two minutes later and unbeknown to Kenny, Chris & Ollie, Gary decided it would be a good idea to open a can of John Smith's for the walk through Barisdale. I shudder to think of their reaction if they knew Gaz had opened a beer through their moment of pain (of couse I had to have a sip for medicinal purposes).
The six mile path along the loch was an enjoyable walk, although unexpectedly tiring with a few steep climbs that you don't really see on the map. By the time we reached Kinloch Hourn, it was nearly 3pm and the legs were beginning to feel weary - not great considering the toughest leg of the entire challenge was waiting for us around the corner. We needed a break to recharge the batteries, after which we would have five hours of daylight to climb 700 metres over 9 miles. This was a mini challenge all in itself and to make matters worse, the weather was beginning to take a turn for the worst - the sun had gone for the day and the wind was really picking up. Just as we were about to leave, Alan dropped the bombshell that he was stopping here for the day and would wait for the guys behind. I don't think he was even quite sure why he was stopping, it just felt like the right thing to do at the time.
In all honesty, I was really worried as we set off for the trek to Shiel Bridge. While researching the trail, I was expecting one or two potentially tricky river crossings and a long pathless section up the south side of the bealach to Forcan Ridge, which would take us to our highest point at 700 metres. There was also the fact that we had left four of the team a few miles back - I had to assume that they would make it safely to Shiel Bridge - somehow!! I decided there was no choice but to shorten this section ever so slightly by leaving the mountain down to the road a couple of miles before Shiel Bridge rather than take the rough, time consuming path through the glen from Forcan Ridge into Shiel Bridge. Our back up driver, the ever reliable Steve Turner, who was traveling up from Dundee, was alerted to the slight change of plan - hopefully he got the voice message and would be there to pick us up at the layby on the main road.
The climb out of Kinloch Hourn was quite severe, which wasn't helped by the makeshift, eyesore of a track recently created to aide the construction of an overhead electrical power line (which apparently plugs Skye into the grid). Although tough going, we were making good progress becoming more confident of making it to Shiel Bridge by 20:30. The rivers weren't in spate which made for easy crossings and, at the point where we traversed the south west shoulder of Sgurr Na Sgine's lower slopes, we reached the end of the track, the team was fairly upbeat. I pointed out the bealach that we were heading to and, although the snow covered peak of The Saddle looked slightly intimidating, the fact we were just going up and over the lowest point of the mountain pass didn't look too bad - oh how these hills can be deceiving!! The nextninety minutes were probably some of the most exhausting we had ever experienced. The slopes was becoming steeper with every step, the ground underfoot was becoming increasingly treacherous and the top of the pass seemed completely unreachable. As we edged closer to the head of the bealach, I could feel the wind getting stronger and the chill factor was much more intense. We had reached the snow level, sitting at around 550 metres, although thankfully it wasn't affecting our climb. I led from the front, trying to find the safest way up the hill. A number of mini gorges and fissures in the rock were making the route that much more difficult. There was a great deal of zig zagging across little streams and between boulders, where we would pause for a drink and a few Wine Gums before setting off again. We could hardly go more than ten metres before having to take a break - it was so exhausting. After what seemed like a lifetime, I reached top of the bealach first. I didn't really know what to expect up there but the extremity of wind and the sheer volume of snow made it very unnerving. The wind was storm force by now, as it funneled between the towering Munros on either side and we felt extremely vulnerable. The guidebook points out a row of stones which mark the start of a path along the Forcan Ridge and ultimately off the mountain - but I couldn't see it anywhere. Snow was now the dominant factor and cause for concern, making it very difficult to navigate and I could tell that some of the little pockets were deep and likely to dislodge at any time. We had to avoid walking across any snow in case we fell right through it, while also leaning into the wind in order to stay upright. After a while, my eyes adjusted to the conditions and could just about make out the wall we were looking for. The only way to reach it was to climb another fifty metres around the edge of the snowline and descend sharply. It was a treacherous little section and, where I felt ok (even though I fell waist deep in a pool of icy water), I still felt responsible for the safey of five other people behind me; and that reality was beginning to prey on my mind. We'd already left four people behind - I shudder to think how we would have fared as a group if all ten of us had decided to tackle this section. Sometimes, when you're so exhausted, both mentally and physically, your emotions get the better of you and, as we were making the slow descent off the hill, I was reflecting on the day and felt the need to phone home to speak to Jenny and the kids. When she answered, all I could say was, 'hello' before I started bubbling away, explaining how hard the challenge was and that I had put the team through far too much.
The wind was still fierce as we reached lower altitude, in fact, it was getting stronger. I was now beginnning to think we would be in for a rough night if it was going to keep up like this. For the last few hours, the magnitude of this challenge really started to sink in. It had been a hugely tough day - more than I'd ever dare to tackle on a normal walking excursion. But, it was for charity and we had to make it difficult if we were to raise money for CLIC Sargent. We could see the road below from a long way up - which never helps. It took an age to get off the mountain, although remarkably we had reached the finish by my estimated time of 20:30 (ish), it was just a pity we had to get a lift for the final mile or so to the campsite - which leads to another story all in itself.........
Steve had received our message and was on hand to drive us along the road to camp - excellent. On our way along the road, I heard a bang but thought nothing more of it as the car seemed to be moving along ok, I thought nothing more of it. Coincidentally, the rest of the team arrived in a taxi from Kinloch Hourn at almost exactly the same time. I was very happy and so relieved to see them. They were in good spirits and made the walk to Kinloch Hourn ok. Unfortunately, all but Alan had decided their hiking exploits were over, for this challenge anyway. As for the camping, the efforts of the last few hours had really taken it's toll on some of the team, to the point where I wondered if anyone would be able to walk the following day. Whether it was a twist of fate or simply pure determination to find anywhere to sleep other than a tent; Donna, Ellie, Kenny, Alan & Steve found a static caravan to bunk in for the night - to them it was heaven and maybe what was needed to recharge the batteries for day three and the final push into Strathcarron. As they left for the caravan in Steve's car, we noticed he had a puncture - we couldn't believe it - even our back up car was knackered!!